Passports&Books

Let’s take a little pause on Peru (don’t worry, I still have plenty more places there to share with you all) but for now, let’s jump continents to one of my boys’ all-time favorite trips: Japan.

And if we’re being specific, their true love story was with Tokyo.

Japan with Kids in November: The Trip That Ruined Convenience Stores Forever

Some families dream of beach resorts. Some dream of theme parks.

Our family apparently dreams of temples, subways, Pokémon merchandise, and convenience store egg sandwiches.

In November 2024, over Thanksgiving break, we packed up our three boys and headed to Japan for about ten days split between Tokyo and Kyoto.

Japan delivered.

Getting There with Kids

We flew from Miami through Toronto to Tokyo.

Long flight, but the boys did great.

Pro tip: inflatable footrest cushions for kids are worth every penny. My youngest was five and managed to sleep like a tiny businessman in business class… while seated firmly in economy.

Where We Stayed in Tokyo

We stayed at Mimaru Tokyo Shinjuku West, and for families it was excellent.

It felt more like an apartment than a hotel room: parents had a bed, and the boys had bunk beds. It was close to the subway and, very importantly, close to a 7-Eleven.

They also have a Pokémon room, which we were not early enough to book. I am still mildly bitter. I also have friends who stayed at the Godzilla hotel, and that looked amazing too.

But honestly? No matter where you stay in Japan, one true luxury unites us all:

the Toto toilet will be there.

Heated seat. Buttons I was too afraid to touch. Technology decades ahead of us.

Japan may have many wonders, but the toilet deserves its own paragraph.

Why This Trip Meant So Much

My husband is of Japanese descent, so taking our children to Japan felt like bringing them to part of their own family story. His grandparents left Japan in the early 1900s and built a life in South America, so walking through Japan felt meaningful in a way I didn’t fully expect.

It is also hilarious when your husband has the Japanese last name, confidently walks into a subway station, and then whispers:

“I have no idea what any of this says.”

So there we were… looking like locals, functioning like tourists.

Thank you, Google Translate!

Because This Is Passports and Books…

Before going, we read.

I personally read Pachinko, Memoirs of a Geisha, and The Japanese Lover by Isabel Allende. Fiction is not a history textbook, obviously, but it gave me emotional context: pre-war Japan, migration stories, tradition, hardship, beauty, and how much the country has changed.

Reading before a trip makes everything richer. Temples are different when you arrive curious.

The children read up on history and culture.

Why November Was Perfect

Everyone talks about cherry blossoms, but November gave us autumn foliage: reds, oranges, golds, and beautiful crisp weather.

It was mostly in the 60s and 70s during the day, cooler at night, and perfect for walking.

And we walked. A lot.

The Kindness of Japan

One thing we noticed quickly was how kind and helpful people were.

English is not widely spoken, especially among older generations, so if we needed help, we often approached younger people who were more likely to know some English. Even when there was a language barrier, people were patient, polite, and genuinely tried to help.

That kindness stays with you long after the trip ends.

7-Eleven: A Love Story

Japanese 7-Eleven ruined American convenience stores for me forever.

Every morning we had some version of: onigiri, smoothies made from frozen fruit cups in a machine, hot ready-to-drink coffee, the legendary egg sandwich, and fried chicken.

And here is my public service announcement: get the egg sandwich, open it up, put the fried chicken inside, and thank me later.

My children may forget algebra one day, but they will remember 7-Eleven in Japan.

Tokyo Highlights

Shibuya Crossing was absolutely worth it.

Yes… I may or may not have briefly lost my oldest at Shibuya Crossing. About two minutes in real time. Eleven years in parenting time. He was totally fine. I was not.

Travel tip: hold on to your kids!

We went back a second time and watched from Starbucks with coffee, like civilized spectators of organized chaos.

Meiji Jingu

You’re surrounded by one of the most modern cities in the world, and then suddenly you step into a peaceful forest path leading to a historic shrine.

We loved watching people quietly pray, bow, and show respect… it felt like a beautiful glimpse into everyday tradition still very much alive.

Senso-ji was one of my favorite temple-and-snack combinations. Behind/around the temple market area, we ate mochi, matcha ice cream, candied strawberries, and taiyaki filled with custard.

Takeshita Street was colorful chaos: giant cotton candy from Totti Candy Factory, souvenir shops, budget stores, Harajuku fashion, and sugar levels that concerned me medically.

DiverCity Tokyo Plaza was a huge hit with the kids, especially with the giant Gundam outside.

Mario Kart Through Tokyo Streets

We traveled with another family, and while I stayed sensible, my husband went off with his friends to do the famous street kart experience through Tokyo.

He said it was fun.

He also said it was terrifying.

So take that review for what it’s worth.

If you’re planning to do it, be aware that participants need to meet age requirements and have the proper international driving permit in addition to regular identification. Definitely look into requirements before your trip.

Strollers in Tokyo

We did not bring a stroller, and for us that was the right call.

Tokyo involves lots of walking, subway stairs, crowds, narrow spaces, and smaller taxis, so a stroller can be more hassle than help.

My youngest was five and walked the whole trip like a champ.

If traveling with a toddler, bring a small lightweight stroller only. Otherwise, I’d skip it.

Pokémon, Anime, and Shopping Madness

Tokyo was heaven for our boys: Pokémon stores, One Piece shops, Hello Kitty, Mario, anime merchandise, plushies, and every imaginable item designed to test parental self-control.

Since we were there over Thanksgiving, we declared it all Christmas shopping. Strategic parenting.

We also discovered Don Quijote, which is basically where self-control goes to die. Skincare, snacks, souvenirs, KitKats, beauty products, random things you suddenly need…Don Quijote has it all.

We arrived with two suitcases and left with five. Vacuum bags are not optional. They are survival equipment.

Tokyo Was Surprisingly Affordable

Getting to Japan from the U.S. was the expensive part.

Once we were there, we were surprised by how affordable Tokyo felt. The yen had dropped while we visited, and meals were often shockingly inexpensive for the quality.

A genuinely delicious plate of food for around $7?

That is the kind of travel math I appreciate.

And this was not mediocre food. This was incredible ramen, perfect curry, fresh sushi, and meals we still talk about.

Best Food in Tokyo

Tsukiji Outer Market was one of our favorite food experiences. We had toro, otoro, sushi, wagyu skewers, and the kids ate approximately their body weight in candied strawberries.

Ichiran Ramen was worth the line. Go downstairs, order, eat, be happy.

Udon Shin was amazing. Their carbonara udon was one of those meals where everyone gets quiet because the food is doing all the talking.

Shogun Burger was also a hit and a great option when kids want something familiar but still delicious.

And honestly, don’t skip market food. Markets were where we ate some of the best things of the entire trip.

Why We Skipped Disney

One thing we did not do was any theme parks.

Yes, Tokyo Disney Resort is supposed to be incredible, and friends have raved about it. If theme parks are your thing, I’m sure it would be amazing.

But our family knows what we love.

We live in Florida, close to Disney, and we almost never go. We’re not a family that plans vacations around rides and amusement parks. We’re much happier exploring neighborhoods, eating local food, visiting temples, learning history, and wandering streets with no real agenda.

That self-awareness has made our travels so much better.

You do not have to vacation the way everyone else does.

What I Would Skip in Tokyo

I would skip the animal cafés.

We tried a hedgehog café and left pretty quickly. It didn’t feel right to us, and the kids didn’t enjoy it either. We thought it would be more observational, but it felt like the animals were being handled too much.

I would also skip most character cafés. The Pokémon/Hello Kitty-style cafés are cute for photos, but the food and coffee were not great. In Tokyo, where amazing food is everywhere, I wouldn’t waste a meal on cute-but-mediocre.

Do Not Skip: Mount Fuji Day Trip

One thing I would absolutely not skip is a day trip to Mount Fuji.

We hired a guide with a car, and that made it easy with kids. The drive was about an hour and a half to two hours, and it was beautiful.

We stopped at temples, viewpoints, and charming little areas with shops and restaurants.

At Lake Kawaguchi, we did a speedboat ride, and it was so much fun. Windy, fast, a little adrenaline-filled, and one of the most beautiful views of Mount Fuji.

Afterward, we ate at Tsujiya (つじや) near the Fuji area, and it ended up being one of my favorite meals of the whole trip. Traditional floor seating, cozy atmosphere, katsu curry, hotou noodles, and food so good we kept ordering.

Important tip: Tsujiya was cash only, so bring enough yen. You will think you’re ordering one thing. You are lying to yourself.

What to Pack for Japan in November

Bring excellent walking shoes, layers, comfortable pants, a light jacket or windbreaker, knit hats for colder nights, gloves for Fuji or windy days, sunglasses, AirTags, vacuum bags, and at least one foldable duffel.

Pack light going there.

You will not pack light coming home.

Final Thoughts

Japan was one of those rare trips where everyone got something they loved.

The boys had Pokémon, candy, anime, and 7-Eleven onigiris.

We had temples, markets, history, food, autumn foliage, and a meaningful connection to family heritage.

And somehow, after all the temples, sushi, Mount Fuji views, and cultural moments, one of the things we still talk about most is putting fried chicken inside a 7-Eleven egg sandwich.

Very on brand for us.

Next post: Kyoto!

Thanks for reading!